Morocco : Land of Mountains, Oceans, Deserts, and Whiskey

In Morocco they call the traditional mint tea "Moroccan Whiskey". Morocco is a Muslim country (Islam prohibits the consumption of alcohol) so it's a fitting name. Moroccans drink it all the time out of small glasses that look like they were meant for double shots. The correct way to pour the tea is by raising the teapot higher and higher as you pour. This creates foam on the surface of the tea which is supposedly so important that you can refuse a cup if it does not have enough.

This we all learned within the first couple hours of arriving in Morocco. Kasia, Armun, Jackson, Carlos, Eli and I. A good ol' gumbo of mixed features and backgrounds. We got picked up by a taxi, which was more of a rugged SUV, and then straight to the Atlas Mountains and Northern Africa's tallest peak.

Eli and our driver buying watermelons on the side of the road

Bargain Eli

 The Imlil Valley is located in Morocco's Atlas Mountains at the base of North Africa's highest peak, Mt. Toubkal. At Carlos's insistence we all agreed to spend our first days in Morocco here. Unbeknownst to us all was the striking beauty and wonder this place held. I was worried that my first experience in an African country would be a dingy pueblo in rural country. How wrong I was. 

Imlil Valley

Our host's name was Lassan. We all immediately became best friends with him. I am convinced that he may be the most gracious man I have ever met. If you cannot get along with Lassan then you're probably the Grinch. Whatever reservations I still held about Morocco evaporated within a few minutes of meeting Lassan.

The first thing Lassan did for us was make us tea. Or rather he taught Armun to make the traditional Moroccan mint tea. We would drink this everyday we were in Morocco. When I took the next photos the calls to prayer were echoing up and down the valley. It was spine tingling and mesmerizing.

Yung Jedi learning the ways of a Tea Master

What do you think of the tea? "Pretty gud."

Lassan's home was built by him and his family. He was unmarried, but lived with his sister and brother-in-law and their two kids, in addition to his parents. We occupied the top floor which held two bedrooms, two sitting rooms, a small kitchen, and a terrace with a view of the whole valley. A constant theme I observed throughout Morocco was the emphasis put on the inside of the home, rather than the exterior. There were no closely manicured lawns or picket white fences.

Doorway to the terrace

One of two impeccably furnished sitting rooms

First thing Carlos does is eat a banana. Feeling completely at home.

Walkway to someone's home

Championship game. The pitch is normal used as a parking lot for visitors and had rocks sticking up everywhere. One fall would surely leave scraps and bruises. The ball would constantly take erratic bounces making for an exciting game. The team's supporters were world class and shit talking was in abundance. The Sky Village would win the game.

Relaxing at night on the terrace

 The second day in Imlil we went hiking to a holy shrine up on the mountainside. Five out of six of us were feeling some type of way making for a hike to remember.

Jackson framed by one of the valley's villages

Last stop before heading up the mountain trail

The trail took us through a dried up river bed. Kasia collected a lot of rocks.

Mountain Rest Stop

We took a break partway up the mountain trail at a rest stop manned by a sleepy older gentleman. He was fasting and I don't think he could be bothered to do anything that would require too much energy. He did squeeze us some orange juice though. For some reason I couldn't stop laughing while trying to drink it.

This fellow was chilling half asleep at his rest stop halfway up the trail. He made us some fresh squeezed orange juice.

Saw a lot of unbridled horses roaming the mountain

A very nice tree for a picture

Explorer Dora Eli

In between these mountain ridges is a beautiful river

At another one of our trail breaks I was enchanted by the river flowing below us. I kept staring at a pool that was off the trail and out of reach. Further on up the trail I saw a waterfall that fell into another dark pool and could not be stopped this time. I stepped off the trail and scrambled down to this waterfall that was calling my name. I wasn't sure if anybody would follow, but after a few individual seconds of rapture I got to share the moment with everyone. 

Our swimming hole below the Holy Shrine

Jackson on his waterfall perch

We swam and sunbathed. We were just out of sight enough for Kasia to swim freely without scrutiny. For an American, Moroccan ideas of modesty for women are rather strict, but it was something that Kasia graciously coped with.

Armun washing away the dust from the trail

Where's Kasia?

Where's Kasia pt. 2

Captured by Carlos

Captured by Carlos

Last look 

Cool rock

Vistas 

Me being photogenic and sunburnt

Morocco : Essaouira and Marrakech

Essaouira is a city on the Atlantic Coast of Morocco. It was humid and mostly overcast. There are beaches, fishing ships, and taxis. We stayed in the Old City which at night is bustling and full of life. We ate a lot of good street food in Essaouira.

Sad Boys chilling on the roof of our Air BnB in the seaside town of Essaouira

Shaka Brotha

The second day Carlos and I wanted to go surfing so we dragged Kasia and Armun with us to Sidi Kauoki. The wind was incredibly strong that day and the waves suffered. We still had fun on the waves we could catch. In two days it was projected to be double overhead at a spot called Caverns.

Shaka Brotha 2

Aussie surfer girl

Sidi Kaouki is pretty much a surf bum town. The locals hung out in this little beachside cafe drinking tea and discussing the surf in between tourist groups. A bunch of stray dogs hung around too and the inspired duo of Kasia/Armun spun out an entire dog soap opera to keep us amused. 

Our beachside hangout; Kasia was frowning through the French menu before realizing it was also in English ahahaha

The babies on the roof for one last group picture before leaving for Marrakech

Light through the window in the corner bedroom; Essaouira

Kasia wearing Armun's clothes; getting breakfast in Essaouira. The window in the left hand corner opened into where fresh bread was being made.

Pastries and Sweet Gazers

Leaving the breakfast spot; Essaouira. The Guy on the left cracks me up.

Its cool for dudes to hold hands in Morocco. Saw it a lot in the streets, usually connected by pinky fingers. Being gay might be a crime in Morocco, but they are still more acceptable of men holding hands than the States. You kinda just have to laugh at the irony; Armun and Eliyahu leaving the Old City

We took a taxi from Essaouira to get to Marrakech. A three hour drive from the coast to the desert with our friendly driver Mohammed who liked Cat Stevens. When we arrive in the medina it is prayer time and the mosque is situated in a market square. During the prayers all the market vendors and street hawkers are silent; cars do not honk and people speak quietly. When prayers are finished the street erupts into life again.

Looking down from the third floor

We were taken to the Riad Sophora by a young boy who threaded us through the bustling streets. The Riad was dreamy. The bottom floor had a reflection pool, a large dining room, a sitting room, and the kitchen. The second floor had three bedrooms, each unique and peaceful. The third floor is the terrace with a shaded sitting area and a view of the rooftops of Marrakech.

Second Floor Drapes

The walls are white and there are low couches and cushions in all the sitting rooms. The Riad is open. Imagine if you took out a 12 x 15 column of your house or extended a sun roof through the entire building. A bird flew in from the terrace and sang to us when we first arrived. Welcome to Marrakech.

Family Photo in the Riad Sophora

Second floor looking down; light from the pool on the ceiling

Armun reflecting in the reflection pool

Me submerged in the reflection pool; shot by Carlos

Marrakech Street

Auto repair shop; inside was covered in oil

Where's Armun?

The Jemaa el-Fnaa is a large square in Marrakech's medina quarter. At night, when the temperature starts to drop, the square becomes a marketplace. Food vendors set up their tents and proceed to hawk you for business even if you don't make eye contact. It's pretty aggressive and I didn't escape some scathing remarks after politely refusing a few offers. Street performers included dancers, acrobats, snake charmers, fortune tellers, and a number of colorfully dressed wanderers.

View of the mosque

Gypsy Man

Who's surprised? Eli communing with the birds

Night Market Grubber; *whispers* "Tell me a secret"

There's that smile again; Marrakech night market

Barcelona Pt. 2

We were all pretty fried when we left Morocco. Both by the sun and by the constant hustle. At the airport we cooled our already slushy minds with Moroccan beer and ate really terrible calzones. I still cannot figure out how Morocco has not one, but two breweries. After some naps, a flight delay, and more naps we arrived back in Barcelona.

It was near midnight by the time we got to our new Air BnB. We met our host at the bar where he worked and had some cold ones on the house. 

Jackson getting screen time in the dining room

The apartment was in El Gotic which is where a lot of skaters and younger people live. A couple blocks away is the Barcelona Museum of Modern Art [MACBA] which doubles as a popular skate spot. Our apartment was in an old building with high ceilings and was surrounded by a vibrant neighborhood. We spent a good amount of time enjoying this neighborhood and resting our travel legs.

Conversations in Spanish

Kasia doll

Conversations in Spanish on reflection

Eliyahu; journalist; correspondent; dingus

Carlos on the laundry ledge