Coffee Ennui: Morocco : Essaouira and Marrakech

Essaouira is a city on the Atlantic Coast of Morocco. It was humid and mostly overcast. There are beaches, fishing ships, and taxis. We stayed in the Old City which at night is bustling and full of life. We ate a lot of good street food in Essaouira.

Sad Boys chilling on the roof of our Air BnB in the seaside town of Essaouira

Shaka Brotha

The second day Carlos and I wanted to go surfing so we dragged Kasia and Armun with us to Sidi Kauoki. The wind was incredibly strong that day and the waves suffered. We still had fun on the waves we could catch. In two days it was projected to be double overhead at a spot called Caverns.

Shaka Brotha 2

Aussie surfer girl

Sidi Kaouki is pretty much a surf bum town. The locals hung out in this little beachside cafe drinking tea and discussing the surf in between tourist groups. A bunch of stray dogs hung around too and the inspired duo of Kasia/Armun spun out an entire dog soap opera to keep us amused.

Our beachside hangout; Kasia was frowning through the French menu before realizing it was also in English ahahaha

The babies on the roof for one last group picture before leaving for Marrakech

Light through the window in the corner bedroom; Essaouira

Kasia wearing Armun's clothes; getting breakfast in Essaouira. The window in the left hand corner opened into where fresh bread was being made.

Pastries and Sweet Gazers

Leaving the breakfast spot; Essaouira. The Guy on the left cracks me up.

Its cool for dudes to hold hands in Morocco. Saw it a lot in the streets, usually connected by pinky fingers. Being gay might be a crime in Morocco, but they are still more acceptable of men holding hands than the States. You kinda just have to laugh at the irony; Armun and Eliyahu leaving the Old City

We took a taxi from Essaouira to get to Marrakech. A three hour drive from the coast to the desert with our friendly driver Mohammed who liked Cat Stevens. When we arrive in the medina it is prayer time and the mosque is situated in a market square. During the prayers all the market vendors and street hawkers are silent; cars do not honk and people speak quietly. When prayers are finished the street erupts into life again.

Looking down from the third floor

We were taken to the Riad Sophora by a young boy who threaded us through the bustling streets. The Riad was dreamy. The bottom floor had a reflection pool, a large dining room, a sitting room, and the kitchen. The second floor had three bedrooms, each unique and peaceful. The third floor is the terrace with a shaded sitting area and a view of the rooftops of Marrakech.

Second Floor Drapes

The walls are white and there are low couches and cushions in all the sitting rooms. The Riad is open. Imagine if you took out a 12 x 15 column of your house or extended a sun roof through the entire building. A bird flew in from the terrace and sang to us when we first arrived. Welcome to Marrakech.

Family Photo in the Riad Sophora

Second floor looking down; light from the pool on the ceiling

Armun reflecting in the reflection pool

Me submerged in the reflection pool; shot by Carlos

Marrakech Street

Auto repair shop; inside was covered in oil

Where's Armun?

The Jemaa el-Fnaa is a large square in Marrakech's medina quarter. At night, when the temperature starts to drop, the square becomes a marketplace. Food vendors set up their tents and proceed to hawk you for business even if you don't make eye contact. It's pretty aggressive and I didn't escape some scathing remarks after politely refusing a few offers. Street performers included dancers, acrobats, snake charmers, fortune tellers, and a number of colorfully dressed wanderers.